First off,
I highly recommend housing one gecko per enclosure, with that said, Leopard Geckos can
be housed in a number of things. The most common being a ten gallon aquarium or
terrarium. This is perfect; it allows for plenty of room and gives you the ability to
see your gecko. Another option is a rack system. A rack system allows you to keep a
number of geckos in a bookshelf like cabinet. Each shelf contains a tote or tub that the
gecko lives in. There are a number of different brands of tubs, like Sterilite and Iris.
So, if you plan on having one or two Leopard Geckos, a couple of ten gallon aquariums
will suit you just fine, but, if you have been bitten by the "gecko bug" and want to
raise quite a few, then a rack system is for you!
Leopard Geckos are nocturnal,
meaning they sleep during the day and become active at night. In captivity, we try to
simulate this by giving the gecko a cave or hide. The hide can consist of moss or paper
towels, dry or moistened. The humid hide, as they're called, is when the substrate in
the hide is moistened. It can act as a place of sanctuary and can assist in the shedding
process. This moist hide can sit on the warm side of the enclosure.
Heating is very important.
Doing it right can save you a lot of headaches down the road. Since Leopard Geckos are
nocturnal, there is no need to have UVB bulbs or any downward heating ever! So that
brings me to my next point, belly heat. Leopard Geckos get their heat through their
bellies. This is key because it helps in digestion of food. Leopard Geckos absorb heat
through the substrate on the ground that is being heated constantly. Some different ways
to achieve under tank heating is by using Under Tank Heaters (UTH's) or Flex Watt. UTH's
are placed under a ten aquarium whereas Flex Watt is attached to the shelf of a rack
system. The heat source should only cover 1/3rd of the enclosure, primarily the back
part. This allows the gecko to monitor its own temperature. The temperature should read
around 90 to 96 degrees Fahrenheit on the hot side of the enclosure. To reach this, you
can either use a rheostat or a thermostat. Both of these regulate the flow of
electricity to get the desired temperature. Also, I recommend a temperature gun to read
the surface temperature. This is one accessory that could benefit you. The UTH's, Flex
Watt, Thermostats, Rheostats and Temp Guns can all be purchased at www.thebeanfarm.com.
So, there you have it, belly heat, the key to a happy and healthy Leopard Gecko.
Substrate is a fancy name for
"what's on the bottom of your cage!" I highly recommend paper towels, as it's cheap,
easy to clean up and there is no risk of a Leopard Gecko ingesting any foreign material,
such as sand, gravel or bark. Foreign material can result in gut impaction, a serious
problem that can lead to death.
Leopard Geckos are
insectivores. Insect eaters! Leopard Geckos are usually not picky eaters and are quite
fun to watch eat. Giving your Leopard Gecko a wide variety of foods is essential in
there health and happiness. Leopard Geckos can eat just about anything that moves, but
size is very important. General don't feed your Leopard Gecko anything bigger than the
length between their eyes,is a good rule to follow. Now the insects: crickets, meal
worms, wax worms, super worms, silk worms, and roaches are all great insects for your
Leopard Geckos. You can also feed a breeding female a pinky mouse on occasion. Have fun
with the bugs, your Leopard Geckos will thank you!
Calcium and vitamins are very
important! Leopard Geckos need calcium like all reptiles to help build strong healthy
bones. Your Leopard Gecko will regulate how much it needs. Vitamins are equally
important as they provide the Leopard Gecko with minerals it needs. Keep a small bowl of
calcium and vitamins in the enclosure at all times. We at Oregon Gecko use Rep-cal
calcium and multivitamins. You can purchase them at www.thebeanfarm.com.
Always have fresh water
available for your Leopard Gecko. They will drink when they need it! So, don't forget
the water bowl!
